/* Layout: single-column field guide, max 680px; cards for places, plain prose for reading. */
:root {
  --bg: #f7f4ef;        /* paper with a faint sand bias */
  --surface: #ffffff;
  --ink: #262423;       /* brand charcoal */
  --muted: #6a625a;
  --line: #e4ddd2;
  --gold: #a8792f;      /* brand gold, deepened for text contrast */
  --gold-soft: #ce9e57; /* brand gold as used in the logo */
  --gold-wash: #f3e8d6;
  --slate: #374750;
  --ok: #3f6b3a;
  --ok-wash: #e6efe2;
  --font-display: "Gloock", "Georgia", serif;
  --font-body: "Nunito Sans", "Segoe UI", system-ui, sans-serif;
  --radius: 14px;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  :root:not([data-theme="light"]) {
    --bg: #1c1a19; --surface: #262423; --ink: #f1ece4; --muted: #b5aca1; --line: #3a3634;
    --gold: #d9ad68; --gold-soft: #ce9e57; --gold-wash: #3a3024; --slate: #a9bcc6; --ok: #9cc792; --ok-wash: #253223;
    color-scheme: dark;
  }
}
:root[data-theme="dark"] {
  --bg: #1c1a19; --surface: #262423; --ink: #f1ece4; --muted: #b5aca1; --line: #3a3634;
  --gold: #d9ad68; --gold-soft: #ce9e57; --gold-wash: #3a3024; --slate: #a9bcc6; --ok: #9cc792; --ok-wash: #253223;
  color-scheme: dark;
}

* { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; }
body {
  margin: 0; background: var(--bg); color: var(--ink);
  font: 16px/1.6 var(--font-body);
}
a { color: var(--gold); }
img { max-width: 100%; display: block; }
h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--font-display); font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.15; text-wrap: balance; margin: 0; }
h1 { font-size: 2.1rem; }
h2 { font-size: 1.55rem; }
h3 { font-size: 1.2rem; }
p { margin: 0; }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--gold); outline-offset: 2px; border-radius: 4px; }

body::before { content: ""; position: fixed; inset: 0 0 auto; height: env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px); z-index: 10; background: var(--surface); }

/* Top bar */
.bar {
  position: sticky; top: env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px); z-index: 5;
  background: var(--surface); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  padding-left: max(16px, env(safe-area-inset-left, 0px)); padding-right: max(16px, env(safe-area-inset-right, 0px));
}
.bar-in { max-width: 680px; margin: 0 auto; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; min-height: 56px; }
.bar .logo { height: 30px; width: auto; color: var(--ink); }
.bar .logo .word { fill: var(--ink); }
.back { appearance: none; border: 1px solid var(--line); background: transparent; color: var(--ink); border-radius: 999px; padding: 6px 12px; font: 600 0.85rem var(--font-body); cursor: pointer; }
.bar .spacer { flex: 1; }
.net { font-size: 0.72rem; letter-spacing: 0.06em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 6px; }
.net i { width: 8px; height: 8px; border-radius: 50%; background: var(--muted); display: inline-block; }
.net.saved i { background: var(--ok); }

main {
  max-width: 680px; margin: 0 auto;
  padding-left: max(16px, env(safe-area-inset-left, 0px)); padding-right: max(16px, env(safe-area-inset-right, 0px));
  padding-block: 20px 56px;
  display: grid; gap: 28px;
}
.stack { display: grid; gap: 14px; }
.eyebrow { font-size: 0.72rem; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold); font-weight: 700; }
.lede { font-size: 1.05rem; color: var(--muted); max-width: 62ch; }
.muted { color: var(--muted); }
.small { font-size: 0.88rem; }

/* Home hero */
.hero { position: relative; border-radius: var(--radius); overflow: hidden; background: var(--slate); }
.hero img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; object-fit: cover; max-width: 100%; }
.hero .cap { position: absolute; inset: auto 0 0 0; padding: 18px; background: linear-gradient(transparent, rgba(20,18,17,.82)); color: #fff; display: grid; gap: 4px; }
.hero .cap h1 { color: #fff; font-size: 1.9rem; }
.hero .cap p { color: #efe6d8; font-size: 0.95rem; }

/* Offline panel */
.offline { border: 1px solid var(--gold-soft); background: var(--gold-wash); border-radius: var(--radius); padding: 16px; display: grid; gap: 10px; }
.offline h3 { font-size: 1.1rem; }
.offline ol { margin: 0; padding-left: 1.2em; display: grid; gap: 4px; }
.offline.done { border-color: var(--ok); background: var(--ok-wash); }
.btn { appearance: none; border: 0; border-radius: 999px; background: var(--ink); color: var(--bg); padding: 10px 18px; font: 700 0.92rem var(--font-body); cursor: pointer; justify-self: start; }
.btn[disabled] { opacity: .6; cursor: default; }
.progress { height: 6px; border-radius: 3px; background: var(--line); overflow: hidden; }
.progress span { display: block; height: 100%; width: 0; background: var(--gold-soft); transition: width .2s; }

/* Section lists */
.list { display: grid; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); background: var(--surface); overflow: hidden; }
.row { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 14px; padding: 14px 16px; text-decoration: none; color: inherit; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.row:first-child { border-top: 0; }
.row .n { font-family: var(--font-display); color: var(--gold); width: 1.6em; font-size: 1.1rem; flex: none; }
.row .t { flex: 1; min-width: 0; display: grid; }
.row .t b { font-weight: 700; }
.row .t span { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.86rem; }
.row .chev { color: var(--muted); }

.cards { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 12px; }
.card { text-decoration: none; color: inherit; border-radius: var(--radius); overflow: hidden; background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); display: grid; }
.card img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; object-fit: cover; background: var(--line); }
.card .ct { padding: 10px 12px 12px; display: grid; gap: 2px; align-content: start; }
.card .ct b { font-family: var(--font-display); font-weight: 400; font-size: 1.15rem; }
.card .ct span { font-size: 0.8rem; color: var(--muted); }

/* Page header with image */
.pagehead { display: grid; gap: 10px; }
.pagehead img { border-radius: var(--radius); width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; object-fit: cover; background: var(--line); }

/* Prose blocks */
.prose { display: grid; gap: 12px; max-width: 65ch; }
.block { display: grid; gap: 10px; }
.block + .block { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-top: 22px; }

details.acc { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
details.acc:last-of-type { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
details.acc summary { list-style: none; cursor: pointer; padding: 14px 0; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; gap: 12px; font-weight: 700; }
details.acc summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
details.acc summary::after { content: "+"; font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: 1.4rem; color: var(--gold); line-height: 1; }
details.acc[open] summary::after { content: "\2212"; }
details.acc .prose { padding-bottom: 16px; }

.glance { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 0; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); background: var(--surface); overflow: hidden; }
.glance div { padding: 10px 12px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); display: grid; align-content: start; gap: 2px; }
.glance div:nth-child(-n+2) { border-top: 0; }
.glance div:nth-child(odd) { border-right: 1px solid var(--line); }
.glance dt { font-size: 0.7rem; letter-spacing: 0.1em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); }
.glance dd { margin: 0; font-weight: 600; font-size: 0.92rem; }

.callout { border-left: 3px solid var(--gold-soft); padding: 4px 0 4px 14px; }
.pairs { display: grid; gap: 10px; }
.pair { display: grid; gap: 2px; }
.pair b { font-weight: 700; }

.yesno { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 12px; }
.yn { border-radius: var(--radius); padding: 14px; display: grid; gap: 8px; border: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--surface); }
.yn h3 { font-family: var(--font-body); font-size: 0.8rem; letter-spacing: 0.1em; text-transform: uppercase; font-weight: 800; }
.yn.ok h3 { color: var(--ok); }
.yn.no h3 { color: #a2463a; }
:root[data-theme="dark"] .yn.no h3 { color: #e08b7f; }
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) { :root:not([data-theme="light"]) .yn.no h3 { color: #e08b7f; } }

/* Tables */
.tablewrap { overflow-x: auto; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); background: var(--surface); }
table { border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; font-size: 0.9rem; }
th, td { text-align: left; padding: 10px 12px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); vertical-align: top; }
thead th { border-top: 0; font-size: 0.7rem; letter-spacing: 0.1em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); font-weight: 700; }
td.amt { font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; font-weight: 700; white-space: nowrap; color: var(--gold); }

/* Seasons */
.season { border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); background: var(--surface); padding: 14px 16px; display: grid; gap: 6px; }
.season .m { font-size: 0.72rem; letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold); font-weight: 800; }
.season .temps { font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--muted); }
.tags { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 6px; }
.tag { font-size: 0.72rem; padding: 2px 8px; border-radius: 999px; background: var(--gold-wash); color: var(--ink); }

/* Checklists */
.checks { display: grid; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); background: var(--surface); overflow: hidden; }
.check { display: flex; gap: 12px; align-items: flex-start; padding: 11px 14px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); cursor: pointer; }
.check:first-child { border-top: 0; }
.check input { appearance: none; width: 22px; height: 22px; border: 2px solid var(--line); border-radius: 6px; flex: none; margin: 1px 0 0; display: grid; place-items: center; cursor: pointer; background: var(--bg); }
.check input:checked { background: var(--ok); border-color: var(--ok); }
.check input:checked::after { content: ""; width: 6px; height: 11px; border: solid var(--surface); border-width: 0 2.5px 2.5px 0; transform: rotate(45deg) translate(-1px, -1px); }
.check span { flex: 1; min-width: 0; }
.check em { font-style: normal; font-size: 0.72rem; color: var(--muted); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 999px; padding: 1px 7px; margin-left: 6px; white-space: nowrap; }
.check input:checked + span { color: var(--muted); }
.count { font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--muted); }
.grouphead { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; gap: 10px; }

.chips { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; }
.chip { appearance: none; border: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--surface); color: var(--ink); border-radius: 999px; padding: 6px 12px; font: 600 0.85rem var(--font-body); cursor: pointer; }
.chip[aria-pressed="true"] { background: var(--ink); color: var(--bg); border-color: var(--ink); }

.contact { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-top: 20px; display: grid; gap: 6px; font-size: 0.92rem; }
.contact .sel { user-select: all; font-weight: 700; }

@media (max-width: 420px) {
  .yesno { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  h1 { font-size: 1.8rem; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { * { transition: none !important; } }

/* Region picker */
.regions { display: grid; gap: 12px; }
.region { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 96px minmax(0, 1fr) auto; align-items: center; gap: 14px; text-decoration: none; color: inherit; background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); overflow: hidden; padding-right: 14px; }
.region.last { border-color: var(--gold-soft); }
.region img { width: 96px; height: 96px; object-fit: cover; background: var(--line); }
.region .rt { display: grid; gap: 3px; padding: 10px 0; min-width: 0; }
.region .rt b { font-family: var(--font-display); font-weight: 400; font-size: 1.2rem; line-height: 1.2; }
.region .rt span { font-size: 0.82rem; color: var(--muted); }
.region .rt em { font-style: normal; font-size: 0.72rem; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: .04em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold); }
.region .chev { color: var(--muted); }

.legs { margin: 6px 0 8px; padding-left: 1.2em; display: grid; gap: 3px; }
.legs li span { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.88rem; }

.area .prose h3 { font-family: var(--font-display); font-weight: 400; font-size: 1.1rem; margin: 14px 0 6px; }
.eats { display: grid; gap: 8px; }
.eat { border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 10px; padding: 10px 12px; background: var(--bg); display: grid; gap: 2px; }
.eat p { margin: 0; font-size: 0.9rem; color: var(--muted); }
.eat .tel { font-weight: 700; font-size: 0.9rem; }
.eat .tel a, .pair a[href^="tel"] { color: var(--gold); text-decoration: none; }
.tipline { margin-top: 12px; }
nav.chips a.chip { text-decoration: none; }
section[id^="sd-"] { scroll-margin-top: 70px; }
.savedline { margin: 4px 2px; }